[BPL888]

We had some daylight remaining so we decided to drive out to Las Cuevas to have a beer and something light to eat at the restaurant there. We followed the signs torward Bahia de las Aguillas and found ourselves on a very "washboard" type road. There were not any major problems with the road but the constant vibration from the "washboarding" was enough to shake parts of the car loose( rearview mirror). For a while I thought we must be on the wrong road due to the lack of electric lines or any sign of life, but after 10-15 minutes of rattling we arrived at Las Cuevas. We had some shrimp in a cream sause (about 300 pesos) and a couple of daquiries. The shrimp dish was one of the best I've had in the DR and the daquiries were just right. While we were enjoying the view the little insects (no-seums?) had a feast on our feet/legs. Bring bug spray! We only stayed long enough to get information about the boat trip to Bahia de las Aguillas (1800 pesos for the boat, it seats about 10). We the headed back to Perdenales to beat the aproaching darkness. We had a few beers and a small meal at the restaurant in the Hotel Villa del Mar. It was quiet there until the bus of doctors returned from their excusion. The pavillion with the bar/restaurant was a good place to relax, but some of the no-seums found us there as well, but now we had bug spray. The next day( Friday) we drove to the other side of town to the frontier market. We parked the car and after some salesmanship we employed a young Hatian boy to "guard" the car. He did not seem capable of much but every time I checked on him in the 1-1/2 hours we were there he was right next to the car watching it! We wandered around the market just enjoying the sights and sounds of a busy multilingual market. After a few minutes we notice that we were being "shadowed" by a 9-10 year old Hatian boy. We ignored him at first and he did not ask for anything or bother us. When we entered a booth in which the woman only spoke creole he stepped forward and in good spanish offered to help translate. After the conversation was over he went back to "shadowing" us, several times joined by smaller friends, who quickly lost interest. When we had collected enough stuff to warrent a trip to the car he immediatly offered and carried the bags to my well watched car. He then went back to 10 steps behind us. We used him several more times to translate and help carry things. He also helped us locate several booths selling things we were interested in. We then started addressing him as "Senor Guia" which got a smile from him. When we passed the people preparing food we asked him if he was hungry and he suprised us by saying no. When we had seen enough of the market we walked back to the car and then paid the car guard 20 pesos and gave Senor Guia 50 pesos, which made them very happy and thier circle of friends envious. We returned to the hotel to collect our bags and check out. Before we left town my girlfriend asked if we could stop at the market one more time for something she now had decided she wanted. We parked outside the market and I waited in the car while she ran inside. While she was inside I saw Senor Guia and I called him over. They had been selling blocks of ice off the back of a moving truck and I asked him if he could get me one. He said yes and that they cost 10 pesos. I gave him a 25 peso coin and he ran off. He returned 5 minutes later with the ice. I took the ice from him and put it in the cooler and while my back was turned a Dominican border guard came up to him, started screeming and grabbed him by the ear. The whole time he was trying to explain and had his hand out trying to give me the 15 pesos change. The soldier then started smashing him in the head with his hard military helmet. I tried to explain but the guard ignored me completely and dragged Senor Guia into the nearby border guard building. I felt terrible, as if I had caused the problem, but did not think I should enter the building. After 5 minutes Senor Guia emerged and came over to me with tears streaming down his face, tried to hand me my 15 pesos change. There was no sign of the guard. I told him he could keep the 15 pesos and then I asked him what the problem was. He very quickly explained that he is not allowed outside of the market, onto Dominican territory. He very quickly went back into the market and sat down and cried. I will not soon forget the vision of him with his Orlando Magic jacket on with the hood pulled up and the tears streaming down his face. My girlfriend then appeared and I asked her to go and see him and see if he was OK. She spoke to him for about ten minutes and she returned to say that he was just upset because he had gotten into trouble. It was only after we had left and were headed down the road that it occured to me that the border guard may have "relieved" Senor Guia of the 50 pesos I paid him. Every time I think of him I count my blessings. I will continue the report as time allows. Next: Bahia de Las Aguillas