The Carretera Internacional
Carretera Internacional, the international road in the west of the Dominican Republic up, actually " up ", the border to Haiti, the name promises a lot and it doesn't disappoint. But the travel should not be tried with a passenger car. I had a jeep and it was an impresing, but at the same time also an oppressive travel.
On the early morning the departure in Montecristi. On a straight road between fields of cacti to Copey and further on to Dajabón, a border crossing to Haiti. The border building on the Dominican side with the border bridge. A yellow iron gate on the center of the bridge, a red on the Haitian side, nothing interesting to be seen, except the garbage scattered over the fields. Underneath the bridge of the Rio Masacre, the border river in this region. On the banks of two boundary stones: RH and/or RD, 17, 1929 - Republique Haiti and/or Republica Dominicana, " 17 " the distance in km to the Atlantic, " 1929 " the year of the establishment of the boundary stone.
Soldiers patrol on the Dominican side, open sewers, which flow into the river, nevertheless women are doing the laundry and drying it on the sandbanks of the river. Others take sand in buckets, then into handcarts and pull the carts to Ouanaminthe, the Haitian border village.
On the Dominican bank you find many Haitians, who live in Dajabón. They sit in the shade and just look across the river what's going on in their country.
Further south you drive on a well paved road towards Loma de Cabrera, it becomes hillier, with more great views on the surrounding mountains. Close to Loma de Cabrera a holy shrine, burning candles, a far view in the valley. In Loma de Cabrera last gas station, the opportunity to refill with gas. Who knows, where there will be the next possibility to get gas.
Uphill through pinewoods, which reminded me of the Alps or the Black Forest, a completely different Dominican Republic compared to the places I've seen befor. A small place with the pathetic name Restauración, a short break in a cafeteria. And at the exit of the village this name emerged for the first time on a sign: 65 km to Pedro Santana.
Still driving through dense forests the road takes a lot of curves, passing small farms. The next place is Villa Anacaon, a further border place to Haiti. Some houses, a military post with castle-like observation tower and a wooden church, which could be located in Norway, too. At the military post a small problem: I would need a permit to take the Carretera Internacional. I had passed the postm where it was to be obtained. After a short discussion the problem was solved and I also had no problems at the control posts further on.
Behind Villa Anacaon you cross a river, which is used by Haitians to get water and and to do the laundry. In the river the clothes are washed and afterwards are put on the rubble to dry. A sharp turn to the left, and the road reached the border to Haiti. Right (= Haiti) some wooden stalls for the weekly market and a few huts, all build on the naked soil , hardly trees or shrubs. Here the paveed road ends and for the next approximately 50 km the Carretera Internacional is a gravel-road through the mountains, at first with two lanes, then however only single-lane with some to let other traffic pass.
The Carretera represents the border to Haiti, on the right of the boundary stones with "RH ", on the left those with "RD ". In addition, you realize at first sight, which country is where, the mountains in Haiti deforested, with only few trees or shrubs, on the Dominican side forests. In addition, in the further process of the road the Dominican side becomes deforested, too. Oppressively the view of the individually standing huts in Haiti. Without water or river close by the people live here. Small footpaths leading into the next valley on the domincan side, show the difficult way howto get the water. Children come down to the road in torn shirts, standing there without saying a word and with faces without move.
All 5 km a sign: still x km to Pedro Santana. By road conditions a slow travel but with the opportunity to look at the landscape. From time to time a place sign, although the houses were invisible usually. For me it has to do with the fact that everything that a name has an owner (in this case the Dominican Republic). Remarkably also the strong military presence along the border with the watch towers as well as a large garrison in Pedro Santana. Does an alleged enemy (Haiti) become more powerful and more dangerous by this?
Approximately 30 km before Pedro Santana a surprise. Behind the sign “Santa Maria” two huts, and in one they sold beverages. In the middle in nowhere, for 10 pesos the bottle, the same price as otherwise in the DR. and an apology that unfortunately they had no ice! An opportunity for a break in the shade and for a discussion with the Haitian family, to whom the Cafeteria belonged. They were surprised of the fact that I was not an Americano but from Germany. If all people in Germany have white skin and if the dollar is the currency, that were their questions. But on the other hand, one of them had already heard of the Euro.
The Carretera for the next 10 km has been carved into the steep slope and the further way was often far to be seen. The mountains became lower and the road reached the valley of the Rio Artebonito. Then a bridge across the river, the last military posts and Pedro Santana was reached. A small place with a large Garni
son, a hospital, a restaurant, which even served Pizza, a small Colmado and a small park in the local centre. Asphalted roads up to the villages edge, small houses made of stone, but no accommodation for the night.
The place to sleep I found 4 km further south, in a place named Banica. A small Dormitorio, like a youth hostel, four rooms, seperated up to the heigt of 2 meters, with a bed, a fan and a lightbulb for each room. To turn the light on or off you only had to turn the bulb. The “bathroom " and a barrel with water were outside before the door! That all for only 75 pesos the night (approx. 5 Euro/Dollar).
On the next morning (it was Thursday) the market took place in Banica. Much smaller than the market in Dajabon, but very authentic, too. Again the small trucks, which support the food supply for Haiti. Other goods were transported by donkeys or on the head from Haiti, on the “parking lot" for the donkeys I counted about 15 - 20 animals. Some Haitians arrived with just one chicken, a handful of platanos or a bag of yucca to sell the goods. The food for the visitors and salesman was prepared on open fire on the soil with wood.
For the return trip on the next day I got the permit in the garrison in Pedro Santana. It took about a quarter of an hour and it was for free!. I had a buddy for this return trip. A soldier, who wanted to return his home after the shift was finished. Another fact worth mentioning: in Villa Anacaon were the tires of the jeep were disinfected. The fee: 20 pesos and the award was a very important looking receipt.
The trip took place in april 2002.
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klaus
