Noise, chaos and fire in Las Terrenas

[Voyager]

I guess all impressions are tainted with the expectations we have, our preferences and level of tolerance… Having said, that, here are some notes on Las Terrenas, as I experienced the place, on a visit last summer:

Before going there, I did a little bit of research and I also got information from Dominican friends of my girlfriend. So, my expectations were to find something similar to White Beach, Boracay Island (in the Philippines). That was (and still is) the place closest to my image of ”the perfect beach”.

We drove from Santo Domingo and as we reached the north, we started the climb over the mountain range to get to Las Terrenas. I have never heard my girlfriend scream ”Ay, Dios Mio!!!” so frequently before, as she did now when she tried to manouver her little Mitsubishi around and across HUGE potholes, while we were being overtaken by one overloaded pickup after the other, driven by maniacs, who apparently had no concern about road safety.

(I might add that my girlfriend is Dominican and this was her first visit to Las Terrenas. She had heard so many good things about the place and wanted to take me there, after hearing me go on and on about Boracay Island, Kho Phan Nang, Bali, Tioman Island and of course the fantastic beaches of Languedoc.)

Finally, we reached Las Terrenas and drove into the village and a total chaos! I think we had to ask 10 people before finding the place we were staying at. (To be honest, I have cleansed my memory of the name of the place.)

”Our place” was one of those typical collection of bungalows kind of places, with a combined bar + restaurant close to the beach. This being a tourist place (however, not an ”All Inclusive”), I assumed I would be able to get by without speaking Spanish. But no, no… I tried all languages I knew, but being penta-lingual didn’t help me there… They insisted on me learning a sixth language, so they wouldn’t have to learn a second… Sigh!

Amazingly, there was a dirt road cutting off the beach from our place, with Jeeps, motorbikes, people on horses and all sorts of traffic zooming by! Geez! Talk about ”pristine” beaches…

At night we drove in total darkness into the village for dinner. Talk about nightmarish place. More traffic than at Picadilly Circus on a Saturday night. Hellish noise from makeshift bars and pickup trucks with loudspeakers in the back blasting away deafening merengue and bachata. Some of the worst traffic offenders were quadbikes, driven by tourists who desperately tried to look like carefree latter day hippies, making an effort to break every rule about driving.

Then, when we had made our way back to the bungalow and turned in, I woke up in the middle of the night, by a kind of ”cracking” sound form outside the bungalow. I got out of bed and went outside. It turned out that the next bungalow, only c.75 meters away from ours, was on fire!!! I woke up my girlfriend and she ran over to the camp office to check if anybody had called the fire brigade.

Thousands of sparks were raining all over the area, landing on the thatched roofs of the bungalows. I felt the whole area was just moments from being turned into an inferno. I ran over to the burning bungalow. There was a camp guard standing there with a handheld powder extinguisher, pointing it at the fire,as if he believed he could put it out by threatening it. I shouted ”Anyone inside? Have you evacuated the other bungalows?” He just stared at me in his mono-lingual way…

My level of tolerance was not too high at that moment in time, so I swore at him and screamed ”Evacuate!!!”, in my ignorance thinking that ”evacuate” would be internationally understood. No such thing! I left the guy standing there with the ridiculous little extinguisher and started running to all the other bungalows to wake people up.

After a while, my girlfriend came back. We sat outside on a bench and watched the burning bungalow fall apart, while we tried to check where all the sparks went. My girlfriend told me that there were three guards at the camp office. They had called the fire brigade but were mostly worried about their jobs, since the fire started during their shift…

I asked her if they had presented any list of which bungalows were occupied, to make sure all guests had been alerted in case the fire spread. They had no such list… I asked my girlfriend what the **** the guards were doing there and if this was an example of Dominican planning and efficiency in case of emergency. She didn’t answer me…

Next day, we left Las Terrenas.

It is such a pity… With just a little planning and a little effort, a place like Las Terrenas could be really nice! It certainly has the potential, with the beautiful combination of beach and mountains.

For me, Las Terrenas is hellish noise, chaotic traffic, overpriced restaurants with seafood that does not even come close to what I have enjoyed in Languedoc and a burning bungalow, with no firebrigade (no, they never showed!) and camp ”guards” that cared nothing if the fire would spread or if people would get hurt.

Maybe I fit better in an ”All Inclusive”? (But why go to DR and stay in an "All Inclusive"? They are boring!) Or maybe in Languedoc, where I plan to take my girlfriend on her next visit to Europe!

[suarezn]

Originally Posted by Voyager

I tried all languages I knew, but being penta-lingual didn’t help me there… They insisted on me learning a sixth language, so they wouldn’t have to learn a second… Sigh!

Man...you speak five languages, but none of them are romance languages (Italian, portugese, French, spanish)? Either one of these would have made you life a lot easier. I know exactly what you mean by people not wanting to learn your language...I went to Japan and I would never return, since those darn Japanese would not make an effort to learn Spanish and treat me like the royalty I should be treated.

On a less sarcastic note, it sounds to me like you're the type of person who would have been more confortable in a place like Las Galeras (quiet, quaint, and with one of the best beaches in the world nearby - Playa Rincon). Las Terrenas is a lot more touristy. If you ever go back to the Samana area give Las Galeras and Playa Rincon a try and then post a report.

[Voyager]

Actually, one of them is French.

I notice the "tongue in cheek" sarcasm, so it's okey! I am beginning to understand the tone many people use on this board, so I guess I have to love it or leave it.

By the way, I've never been to Japan, so I just have to take your word for their no knowledge of Spanish. Won't hurt me though, since I think enough Japanese people speak English... Apparently, you speak English too, so I guess you'd do just fine!?

Thanks for the suggestions!!! I'll check out those places next time!

(I might add, as contrast to me not enjoying Las Terrenas, that I have been to places like Jarabacoa and Constanza and fell in love with them. Fantastically beautiful places and friendly, nice, low key people! I had a great time there.)

[Narcosis]

Voyager

I get a giggle from reading your posts. I find very little to compare the French Riviera to Las Terrenas. They are two totally different animals alltogether.

If you can pay for a vacation on the French Riviera maybe you would be better-off staying in a villa at Casa de Campo or some of the nicer places advertised on this site maybe Seahorse Ranch for example.

[Captdavid]

OK, this is kind of funny, in a way. I couldn't help but laugh.

I have an apartment in Las Terrenas, in Playa Colibri, and we are very happy there when we visit. I don't find it so bad where we are. It is actually kind of peaceful at Colibri.

Everything you said is true; however, you must have gone during some sort of a holiday, in which case, the place just goes bonkers (especially during Easter weekend).

The town is unbearable. Those darn motorcycles are a pain in the neck. And that annoying little pick up truck with the loud speakers that blow you right off your seat is enough to drive anybody crazy.

What most tourists don't know is that those security guards, holding a firearm, are not much help. These people grow up eating nothing but plantains (and if they are lucky, rice and beans) and they all suffer from malnutrition. Their brains have very limited fuction and they do not understand things clearly.

As far as your inability to communicate, I am a firm believer of "when in Rome, do as the Romans do. If you are in a Spanish speaking country, you shouldn't be annoyed because they don't understand you. Actually, there are tons of people in Las Terrenas who speak at least three languages. At Colibri, the girls at the reception desk all speak Spanish, English, French, German, and Italian. What more can you ask.

The ride thru the mountain is kind a treacherous, but this keeps a lot of people away and it is better this way. Can you imagine if it were more accesible how many more people would go there?

There is a place in Northern Michigan called Mackinaw Island, and to get there from the mainland you have to go by boat. Once you are there, there are no motorized vehicles anywhere. They are prohibited througout the island. The mode of transportation is by bicycles or horse-drawn carriages. It is clean, quaint, harmonious and a total joy.

Would'nt it be wonderful if you could do the same in Las Terrenas? Can you picture it?

Corky

[Conchman]

Nobody in Japan speaks English, by the way.

I was there for two weeks, about 5 years ago, and NOBODY spoke english

[Ken]

Originally Posted by Conchman

Nobody in Japan speaks English, by the way.

I was there for two weeks, about 5 years ago, and NOBODY spoke english

Sure they do. Many in Japan speak English as their second language and use it regularly in business, international affairs, etc. But as a matter of pride, they expect others to learn and speak their language when in Japan.

Not unlike a great many of my fellow countrymen in the US who think the world should learn their language.

[suarezn]

Originally Posted by Captdavid

Would'nt it be wonderful if you could do the same in Las Terrenas? Can you picture it?

Corky

Hell No!!! If you've really been to Mackinaw Island you will know that the place is a big pile of horse dung. I will take motoconchos any time to about 1000 horses walking and crapping all over every road. This is a perfect example of how different people like different things. Most people think this place is wonderful, yet I didn't care much for it (even though I had all expenses paid for by my company). The Grand Hotel? Too snooty and old fashioned for me.
I did not care much for it. I mean come on, having to wear a suit (even kids) after six PM? Who the heck likes that, but the snootiest of the snootiest...
No thanks, I will take my DR any time...with noise and garbage and all...

[bob saunders]

We stayed at Colibri resort last summer and I agree with everything Capt David said. Quiet, peaceful, good hosts, great beach, noisy dirty town but it's far enough away that you don't notice it. Several of the restaurants on the beach are good and not too expensive.

[Captdavid]

Originally Posted by suarezn

Hell No!!! If you've really been to Mackinaw Island you will know that the place is a big pile of horse dung. I will take motoconchos any time to about 1000 horses walking and crapping all over every road. This is a perfect example of how different people like different things. Most people think this place is wonderful, yet I didn't care much for it (even though I had all expenses paid for by my company). The Grand Hotel? Too snooty and old fashioned for me.
I did not care much for it. I mean come on, having to wear a suit (even kids) after six PM? Who the heck likes that, but the snootiest of the snootiest...
No thanks, I will take my DR any time...with noise and garbage and all...

I knew someone was going to say something about the horse dung! I didn't find it a problem since there are people cleaning the streets constantly. What I suggest is that we get the carriages for Las Terrenas, and that they hire the motoconcho drivers to pick up the dung, that way, it won't be a problem. He,he,he....just kidding!

Who said anything about wearing a suit? And I didn't say anything about going to the Grand Hotel either, but it is pretty there.

I would like to see something done about the motochonchos, though. They are dangerous and LOUD!

Corky