Guayacanes and the SE coast
I just returned from my first trip to the Dominican Republic! Thanks to everyone who posted or sent tips. Below is a summary of my trip for people who are contemplating or planning their own.
My boyfriend and I stayed at Hotel Playa Esmeralda, which is in the town of Guayacanes (between Boca Chica and Juan Dolio on the southeast coast). As the few reviews out there assert, this is a great budget hotel near the capital. It is a small, cozy, and very well-kept place. You had better speak some Spanish if you stay there, or at least some German. I just posted a review of Playa Esmeralda.
No other hotels are in sight, but never fear! The hotel is right next to a public beach, Playa Vicini, where a lot of Domincans go. The town is a fishing village that sits next to the highway. You can walk around Guayacanes by beach or road. Check out the local outdoor restaurants and beach food vendors on Sunday.
When you have exhausted the resources in Guayacanes, hop the westbound guagua (public van-bus-vehicle) to Boca Chica--only 20 pesos for a quick ride/cultural experience. Boca Chica has nice water for swimming but I would not want to stay there. The constant stream of vendors got a bit annoying. They respect a firm, "No, gracias, senor," however. A bar employee "captured" us and dragged us to his beach establishment, where he convinced my boyfriend to buy 3 drinks--one for him--and charged us 700 pesos. To avoid these people you could lock yourself into the walled compound of the Coral Hamaca. But what would be the fun of that? Apparently there are a lot of prostitutes in town, so if that is your thing, there you go.
Next, venture down the road to Juan Dolio (a longish walk or a short guagua ride). The west end of the hotel zone is pretty much a ghost town, but it is good for a walk-through. It inspired me to someday write an abandoned-hotel horror novel. We went to Il Capuccino, where I had the best pina colada ever, and to Grotta Azzura, a tasty and affordable Italian restaurant.
Next, hop on the guagua and head to Santo Domingo for 50 pesos. If you can, skip the guided tour and bring a book. Lonely Planet's guide was a great walking tour. As first-timers in the city, we asked to go to the Zona Colonial. Definitely visit this part of the city, but be sure to venture off the tourist-trap El Conde, a pedestrian street that connects major historical landmarks. We ate lunch at Paco Cafeteria, where many locals were dining, and walked down Padre Billini, a pretty street with historic churches. To get picked up by a guagua going back, hike through the neighborhood to Parque Enriquillo and ask someone where to get on.
We bought a tour package to Isla Saona. I'm sure it could be done on your own, but this was worth it--US60 for transportation on a nice bus, walk through Altos de Chavon (pretty but very theme-parkish--I would not linger here too long), life-flashing-before-your-eyes speedboat ride to a "natural swimming pool" out in the water, and then docking at Isla Saona, an island in Parque Nacional de Este (the southern peninsula of Hispaniola). On Isla Saona they provided a very good lunch and open bar. You could chill there for a few hours, then you board a catamaran for the return trip. Of course, there was someone serving Cuba Libre (rum and Pepsi) the whole day. It was about 11 hours from beginning to end. Do not miss Isla Saona. It is spectacular.
CONCLUSION: Go to Guayacanes, stay at Playa Esmeralda, and have fun exploring the southeast coast!
|
(10)
