Between my last stint and my current stint living in the Dominican Republic, which has now totaled over 2 years, I’ve been fortunate enough to see much of the country. For a long while Jarabacoa was my favorite place to visit as I tend to favor the green mountainous country to the warm tropical beaches. Three weeks ago, I embarked on a 2 day trip to Constanza and it is safe to say that I now have a new favorite getaway in the DR.
I had heard much about the road to Constanza as being a dangerous winding death route up into the mountains, my aunts even pleaded with me not to go alone since they did not consider me an experienced mountain driver. I must say I was a bit frightened myself beforehand, mainly because I thought back to studying in Chile and having to maneuver some terribly scary roads high up in the Andes. Either way, I was finally ready to discover Constanza, as I had heard so much about it.
My girlfriend, Melenie, and I set out from Santo Domingo on Wed. 2 January. Before I knew it we were getting off the main highway on the Constanza exit and making our way up the mountain. I found the road in good condition and my only fear was getting hit by one of the several guaguas coming down dangerously fast. I basically took my time and even encouraged others behind me to pass; I was in no rush. Descending into the Constanza Valley was quite a site with green as far as the eye could see. At this point, I even turned off the AC and rolled down the windows; as the air temp dropped substantially lower than what it was in Santo Domingo. I always long to drive with my windows down in the capital but a mix of car fumes, heat, and street vendors keep my windows up and secure.
We arrived at our Hotel Altocerro
ALTOCERRO - VILLAS, HOTEL, & CAMPING. My girlfriend and I decided on a weekday trip because the prices dropped a bit as compared to the weekend. We were directed to our Villa and wow! A beautiful view of the valley from our terrace, kitchen, living room, a spiral staircase down to the bedroom and bathroom (with permanent hot water) and…a chimney! All for just RD$1,360 (US$41) per night. On the weekend this went to RD$1,700 (US$51). Both prices are for 1 bedroom.
We strolled the hotel grounds and they were very well kept. Behind the hotel is a large grassy area with barbecues, playground, benches, a small gym and even a pool table, where I was forced to pummel Melenie numerous times.
That night we rode into the town center which was only a mile or so from the hotel. Both of us wore jackets because of the cold (41 degrees Fahrenheit). I never thought I would see my breath in the Dominican Republic! The town center was small and quaint. I took a few turns to look around a bit before stopping at Aguas Blancas Restaurant (809) 539-1561 for dinner. From observing some of the town’s residents with wool hats and thick coats I couldn’t help but feel I had been there before – something looked so familiar. I thought and…of course, Washington Heights! It was the first time I had seen heavily dressed Dominicans outside of Washington Heights…haha. The food at Aquas Blancas Restaurant was very good, I had guinea hen with tostones and Melenie ordered steak with fries. We both left room for a special dessert. Upon arriving at the Villa I purchased firewood for RD$75 (US$2.20) at the reception and after getting a nice fire going in our chimney, we roasted marshmallows and made s’mores; so many Dominican firsts in one day.
Day 2
Today’s objective was to visit Constanza’s famous waterfall Aguas Blancas. I was warned this road was in very bad condition and that a 4X4 was needed, but I had faith in my 2X2 Toyota Rav 4. The route afforded absolutely spectacular views of pine forests and cultivated mountain sides; I no longer felt like I was on this tropical island. The trek to Aguas Blancas was pretty straightforward and we asked some friendly locals on the way just to make sure.
The total time was about an hour and a half, not so much because of the distance, but more because you are traveling on a dirt road with many holes, and at some points, it becomes a bit nerve-racking. Actually, closer to the waterfall I have no idea what I would have done if another car came in the opposite direction. Many parts of the road fit my car and no more. This section of very skinny road begins at what seems to be the official entrance to the waterfall as you will see a large government sign indicating the direction of Aguas Blancas. There is also a small colmado at the entrance if you want to pick up some basic refreshments. Some told me to leave my vehicle here but that would have meant a good 45 minute walk. I kept going because I wasn’t sure if that was the entrance. Only about 10 minutes before the fall we hit a point that made me think twice about passing. It was a very skinny part of the road with a large sewer pipe below. The scariest part of this section was the fact that the ground was wet and I did not want my car to slide off. I decided to push on and later I would notice that two other drivers decided to leave their vehicles before this section to do the rest on foot. I will probably do the same next time.
Once Aguas Blancas came into sight it was apparent that the long trek out was well worth it; a towering 150 meter waterfall crashing into a green lagoon below. I think it was the waterfall’s remoteness that made it even more beautiful. I tried my best to get in the water but it was so cold that it was burning my skin – Melenie didn’t even attempt it. I seriously felt like I was putting my body in ice water. So, instead of swimming, we just appreciated this natural wonder.
On the way back we stopped at Rancho Macajo (809) 707-3805 along the main road for a late lunch. The place promoted itself as a small zoo with villas and a restaurant. The zoo included 4 monkeys, one in a very bad mood, 2 beautiful Persian/Siamese Cats, 4 bunnies, 4 turtles, and parrots; O.k., not the Bronx Zoo but cute for the Dominican country side. We had a nice lunch overlooking the valley and when I got the bill I realized I was charged RD$350 pesos for a plate of goat meat and white rice! For those of you who don’t know, I was charged US$11.50 for a plate that would cost US$3.50 even in the capital. Since I’m an animal lover I justified the high price as a donation to the mini-zoo, needless to say, the food here was way overpriced.
The trip to Aguas Blancas turned into an all day ordeal and we returned to Constanza just before sunset. As day turned to night, Melenie and I sat on the terrace with a heavy blanket appreciating the smells and sounds of the country while sipping on hot chocolate; the temperature now at 5 degrees Fahrenheit. No other destination in the Dominican Republic had ever been so relaxing and breathtakingly beautiful.
Tired from the long day, we turned in early. In the morning it would be back to the car horns, back to the stress, and back to the masses of Santo Domingo.
Check out the pics:
http://www.dr1.com/media/showgallery.php?cat=575
Getaway trip to Constanza Jan. 08
