This was sent to me via email from
Cleef. Great report!
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Rio Damajagua and its waterfalls
My trip to Rio Damajagua was with the adventure club at Mundo Maria Montessori School in Santo Domingo. Led by Domingo Abreau and his son Ico (“Eco”), we left S.D. around 6 am. and drove out Autopista Duarte to Puerto Plata and then east towards Cabarete.
Soon after the mountain tunnel you’ll come upon signage for the river, and as the right side opens up into a huge basin of sugarcane fields, exposing the mountains that are responsible for today’s adventure, keep an eye out for a ramshackle hut on the left side of the road. This serves as the “tourist center” but it’s usually better to turn off to the right in the opening in the field and let them come to you or walk across the road. If it looks like there is a basketball team hanging out in their aqua blue jerseys, you’re in the right spot.
I don’t know what the rates are, but if you elect not to hire their services, be sure to pack body bags, toe tags and a Sharpie. I believe we had 3 guides in total and they were indispensable, and pulled off some of the hugest airs of the day (that means big leaps from 70 feet into a pool of water the size of a Le Car).
Domingo took care of all the negotiations with the basketball team and soon enough we were dribbling our way down the path to the drop off point. 4WD will certainly help shorten the walk-in distance but its not entirely necessary. As we drove through the cane fields we were briefed on what to bring – nothing – and what to leave behind – everything. As this was translated to me in English I noticed a man who stopped cutting the cane to smile welcomingly to me – he clearly had began his day where his night had ended it – smiling back through the bus window, I thought what good fortune it was that I’d forgotten my Rolex.
As I got off the bus Domingo grabbed my camera laden arm and said “no no no”, I said “si, si, si”, he said “no, no, no” I said “see, see, see” as I showed him my dry bag that I prayed would keep my bulky Canon SLR safe and dry. He still thought it was a bad idea; too bulky, too much weight, you’ll have to swim with it underwater, jump off waterfalls and you’ll be lucky to get it out alive. He was right on all counts, and I surely was lucky to get it out in one piece. I’d recommend a disposable waterproof if you must have something to bring back beyond great thrills and waterlogged sneakers.
The hike begins down some muddy trails leading to the first crossing of the river. It had been raining heavily in the weeks leading up to this day, and that combined with some heavy earthquake activity had transformed the river, it’s outflows, and even the hike up the mountain. The breadth of devastation was evident in the foul odor of rotting carcasses (goats and pigs were seen) that were entangled in the collected brush that had collected at the outflow onto the plain. The evidence on some trees showed the height of the water was above my chest at one point, some 30 yds before the current edge of the river, probably 6-8 feet, perhaps more.
The first crossing was very high by normal standards and still quite manageable. Once the herd of water buffalo made a break for it downstream, engaging the dozen or so 20-foot crocodiles, it gave us just enough time to spare us their gnashing teeth and we made our push for the other side of the river.
Now that we were completely soaked, and it turns out there weren’t any crocodiles, we all have a laugh and begin the 30-40 minute hike up the mountain. Most of the hike is on a good angle against the fall line; past some remote homesteads that made me glad I didn’t move to the DR to live on a remote mountainside homestead. The remains of a mountain wall that broke away during the recent seismic and weather activity left a thick pasty mud - sometimes knee-deep - covering the trail and surrounding jungle in spots. It was relayed to me that we were likely to see a very different river than what existed just a few days before, and that the river flow would be very heavy.
On the way we encountered various fruit trees and our guides collected some fresh aguacates as we stopped to let the rest of the clan catch up. Once we were at the river the aguacates that weren’t consumed were poured into the river to feed whatever aquatic life made the habitat home.
One of our fearless leaders decided to the pulp would serve well as hair conditioner.
We entered the waterfall arena just above it’s mid-point and began the ascent to the top up chutes and waterfalls pushing down and endless flow of water. This is where the guides are truly a must have.
By building human ladders we’re able to get up and over some pretty hairy stuff. I’d venture to say that a few of the rises are impassible solo, and many required all three guides to maneuver person by person up some precarious switchbacks over water and silt carved rock that was slippery at times.
Keep in mind; this is not an adventure for everyone. Being comfortable in and under water is a good start, being in decent physical shape helps for sure, and the ability to not panic when you jump 70 feet into a waterhole and come back up with nothing on but a grin may come in handy as well. Surely the more daring you are (i.e. willing to make some big jumps into small but deep pools) the more fun you’re going to have.
There will be a few times you’ll be forced to make some jumps - or slides into fast moving chutes - that will safely propel you into the pools below.
Some falls are easier than others, but there is almost always a good jump involved for those brave enough.
The guides will often use a tree limb to insure that the depths of pools are safe for jumping. Safety is a major consideration as hauling your body out of this river valley would only be an additional $150 pesos per man, or $35 per body part, hardly worth it. The guides were always a step ahead of us checking on the best routes, the power of the river flow and any loose schools of flesh devouring piranhas. But with the carcasses laying around lower in the valley they were quite certain we’d make it down in time to avoid their late day push upstream.
The valley was filled with interesting flora like this Copey bloom. This one had fallen down from high in the canopy and dozens were littered about here and there. I carried one back with me in the hope that it would dry out and make an additional cool piece of nothing to add to the detritus all over my house. But instead I found out why the Indians used the plant. The middle part of the flower, when it begins to rot (or when you put it in your hat and carry it down 27 waterfalls) becomes a glue like residue that holds onto anything it touches like it’s an 800 pound gorilla with a stalk of ripe bananas.
Note to self: Take pictures, leave footprints.
This interesting rock formation appeared to be clay, but after a technically detailed 5-minute diatribe in Spanish – absolutely none of which I understood – I learned that it isn’t clay. It’s rock, so there.
This unidentified piece of wood was at the top of the mountain and its rich color and wandering guest was worth putting on film, and hopefully onto your computer screen.
The final pool is a doozy. The only way down is to take a water chute to the first pass – the best chute of the day I thought – and then jump about 8-10 feet into the final lagoon. The other option is to take that final chute then climb to the top of the ledge, then up a tree and make this jaw-dropping jump of better than 70 feet.
You can likely set this trip up in Puerto Plata, Sosua and Cabarete, check with the local tour companies. Bring dry clothes (that doesn’t mean their dry when you pack them, but that they don’t hold water - i.e. no cotton) good rubber soled sneakers that you don’t mind sparing a half-life of, a towel and some dry (cotton ok here) clothes for the ride home. Definitely bring some food to eat for when you’re done too, you won’t be eating on the trip. This is a full day adventure and you want to start early. Also, don’t put the Copey’s in your hat, and don’t put any cool stones you like in your back pocket as they will rip your butt to shreds – as well as your shorts – when you blast down the chutes.
Any size group will do, the more the merrier.
Cleef
(618)
Rio Damajagua and its waterfalls
